" Starting Life with Your New Foal!"
This information sheet has been provided to give you some insight into what to expect when your new foal arrives. It
should be treated as a guideline only and your veterinarian should be consulted immediately if you have any concerns
about your new foal’s health so that the proper diagnosis and relevant treatment can be administered as soon as
possible.
Prior to Arrival at Their New Home:
Have a relationship with a veterinarian nearby that treats large animals and have their emergency number on hand...
you never know when you may need it.
Your new foal may have traveled hundreds of miles, possibly with stops along the way. This is also a weaning period for
these babies - being apart from their dams for the first time. The trip will tire them out, they may be depressed due to
the major changes in their short lives, and they may have some minor cuts or scrapes sustained while traveling in a
trailer with many other foals. Remember that the foals are transported “loose” in a trailer - safer at this age as they will
find their own balance and a comfortable position to travel in. Foals traveling to the southern areas of the United
States may experience additional stress as they will have to adjust to the warmer climate. Keep in mind that these foals
will adjust quite quickly to their new environments.
Understand that the foals will NOT be halter broke or easily handled when they arrive - they will have had almost no
handling at this point and it will take the individuals time and dedication to gain their trust.
Remember that these foals are not familiar with people. For some, you may be their first actual contact with anyone
other than “Mom” or their buddies. Up until this time, any contact with people will have been done using a chute or small
paddock or just being caught to be wormed or medicated.
These foals are untrained and capable of causing injury to themselves if they feel they are being threatened. They
are born naturally, in large fields, some not even seeing much of people until they are “rounded-up” at 3 months of age
and brought in for separation from their dams. The majority of farms use substantial board fencing for handling of their
horses and foals, therefore these foals are not familiar with wire or electric fencing and may panic if exposed to it. Their
short lives have been spent in the company of other horses and foals and once separated upon arrival at their new
homes, they may panic. Please try to plan ahead and ensure that your new foal will have an inviting yet TOTALLY
SAFE environment to enter into.
One thing we highly recommend is a companion of another equine for your new horse. Horses are herd animals and no
other animal be it a goat, dog, chicken or cow can substitute the need for equine company.
Equines need each other and can develop fatal ulcers, bad behaviors, and can even die from depression if isolated
from other equines. Consider that when making a purchase and have another horse available so the new horse can feel
safe and relaxed in its new home and environment.
Your Foal’s New Home:
Not enough importance can be placed on providing a safe and healthy home for your new foal. As these foals are not
yet used to being kept indoors, a small, properly fenced area would be ideal. This area should be sufficiently large so
that the foal has plenty of room to run and frolic, but small enough that catching the foal is possible. It is important for
the foal to be able to exercise adequately and to allow their bodies to develop properly. Do not isolate foals from other
horses or equine companionship. This can be a fatal mistake.
A shelter from the elements is a necessity: a run-in type shelter or stall in a barn is suitable providing it allows shelter
from wind, rain, snow and the heat of the sun. It should large enough to permit the foal to move around easily and also
take into consideration the number of horses/foals using the same structure. If you plan on bringing your foal into a
stall for periods of time, the stall should be of an adequate size that the foal can move around freely, be solidly
constructed and have all additions (feed tubs, waterers, etc.) safely and securely attached and also you should put his
companion horse in the same stall with him or at least allow him to have access visually of the other horse.
Suitable fencing is VERY important. Fences should be strong, safely constructed and high enough (minimum 3 feet) to
discourage jumping. There are several types of fencing available, most are acceptable. One or two strand electric,
barbed wire or page wire are NOT recommended.
If you have any concerns regarding fencing, ask your veterinarian or a reputable breeder in your area.
Remember also, that FRESH water, HAY and SALT should be available free choice at ALL times whether your foal is
turned out in a paddock or field or spending some time in a stall.
Health Concerns:
Your Veterinarian is your best resource to answer any questions or concerns regarding the health or condition of your
foal on arrival. The following data is provided for information only - your veterinarian IS the expert!
A quarantine period will allow you to get to know your foal and introduce yourself in their life. They will soon realize that
YOU are the source of food and companionship - this will become a very important part of their acceptance of their new
life.
Remember that all foals are different - some may accept your presence quite readily whereas others may be resentful
and afraid and will react as nature has taught them - with teeth and heels or simply by avoiding all contact.
Find out what it is your foal likes enough to overcome these fears - food is usually a good start. Sometimes, a good
scratch is just the ticket. Be persistent but don’t overtax the foal by forcing your presence on them - they will come
around on their own time.
Foals are curious by nature and once they find that people aren’t the ogres the foals think they are, the acceptance will
come quite readily. TIME and PATIENCE is important. Each foal is an individual and the time it takes for them to accept
humans will vary accordingly. Foals housed individually tend to bond with people more quickly than those who are in a
group.
While in a new home situation, a general assessment of the condition and health of the foal can be done as early
detection of any illness is important. Make a visual assessment of the foal’s overall appearance - do they appear
sound? Are they as bright and attentive as is reasonable? Are there any cuts or scrapes that may need attention?
Also, monitor your foal’s intake of hay/pasture and any additional feeds they may accept. It may be advisable to feed
hay at this time so the amount eaten can be monitored. If possible, ensure that the foal is passing manure and urinating
normally. Manual water supplies such as buckets or troughs are recommended in place of automatic waterers so that
the water consumption can be watched.
Your Foal’s Feeding Program:
Remember that your foal has come from a completely different environment than their new home. They have spent the
first few months of life living with their dams in large open fields, depending first on the mare’s milk and graduating to
pasture. These foals have not had grain in their diets so it should be introduced slowly and be a feed suitable for foal
consumption. It may take a few days for the foal to become accustomed to eating grain, but they soon find the taste
VERY likeable! Also take into consideration the weight and breed type of your foal and feed accordingly. Draft foals will
have somewhat different feed requirements than a light breed foal. Creep feeding a 10% grain based feed is acceptable
if the foal is under 1 year old.
Good quality hay is the most important part of a foal’s diet and is essential to proper growth. Ensure your foal has
sufficient hay offered - many people feed hay free choice as opposed to giving specific amounts. This is a better option
in this breeders opinion as long as the hay is fresh, free of mold and dust and changed out often if not completely
consumed.
If you are unsure of the quality of your hay, invest in the small amount it costs to have it analyzed - it is money well
spent. A mixed type hay - timothy, grass, with some with alfalfa is recommended as it is usually well-balanced and highly
palatable for foals.
Grains, complete feeds and/or supplements are also an important part of your growing foal’s diet. There are many
opinions as to what type of feed your foal should be given. Minis do not do well on pelleted foal feed,(for digestive
reasons)and do much better on a high grain content(oat based) low corn based sweet feed combined with one or many
of the vast array of equine supplements that are available. If you are unfamiliar with the best feed to offer your new foal,
consult your Veterinarian, a reputable breeder in your area, equine nutritionist or a feed analyst that may be affiliated
with a local feed store. Remember to tell them you have minis.
Minis do not do well with pellets or corm based feeds.
Foals can eat several pounds a day and be ok.
A full grown mini needs to have feed adjusted according to their condition. A regular mini in good health and condition
would consume about 2 lbs total of grain a day preferably cut into two feedings.(am and pm). A thin or pregnant mini
would do well with up to 3 to 4 lbs and some sort of supplement.
Remember, a full grown mini can weigh up to 450 if its a large sized mini. Adult horses can eat up to 10% of their weight
in grain per day meaning a 400 lb mini as long as its not obese should get up to 4 lbs of feed.
Its better to feed 2lbs in the am and 2 lbs in the pm than all 4 lbs at once.
Hay is offered free choice all day and night.
Ensure that the ration is balanced, taking into consideration the makeup of your hay, and your environment. (A foal
living in the sunny south will need a different type of ration than one going into a Canadian winter.) Remember to adjust
your feed ration as your foal grows, monitoring his or her growth and joints routinely for signs of any developmental
issues which can happen with any youngster.
Also remember foals have thick coats and often look fatter than they really are. Feel through the hair coats to make
sure you do not feel ribs or a spine.
if you do feel ribs and or see a pot gut, your horse is probably wormy and malnourished.
You need to step up your feed program. Your horse should look sleek and fat and healthy. Anything other than that and
you have a problem.
Clean water should be available at all times and care taken to ensure that water containers be kept clean. With the
foals arriving in the pre-winter months, also ensure that extremely cold water is not presented (adding warm water or
use of a water heater may be necessary).
Salt should be provided at all times - a mineral salt lick is recommended. A trace mineral block is ideal or you may want
to add a mineral mix to the foal’s feed ration or its easier to just have a bock and allow free choice licking.
Ensuring the Health of Your Foal:
De-worming:
Your foal may or may not have been wormed prior to arriving at their new home. It is recommended that the foal be
wormed soon after their arrival (usually as soon as the foal can be handled safely). Your veterinarian can recommend
the best de-worming product to use - at this time usually a wide-spectrum type like any ivermectin product is
recommended.
Quest, with the active ingredient moxidectin, should NOT be used on miniature horses EVER(death can occur), and
wormers such as strongid or panacur have a high worm resistance and are not effective in killing the worms any more.
De-worming your foal may prove tricky at first if you are using the syringe type products. Make sure if worming a very
small young foal you use a proper amount and do not allow the syringe to slip and over worm your foal.
Your new foal most likely weighs between 30 and 70 lbs if under year old.
Commercial Ivermectin wormers are often in 250lb increments and not designed for tiny miniature foals. You might ask
your vet to make you up some syringes for the proper weight of your foal with a liquid ivermectin until your foal reaches
yearling age at which time you can give him the 250 lb dose from the commercial ivermectin you choose to use. Your
foal may only weigh 100 lbs at a year old but ivermectine is still safe to over dose in this range and the foal will be ok.
Worming is recommended every other month or every 8 weeks minimum.
It is a critical part in caring for your horse as worms can be the number one killer and cause of colic and other health
problems. Simply dewormimg on a regular basis can insure a long happy and healthy life. Ignoring this minor health care
step can cost your horse dearly.
Rotation deworming is not advised as over the counter dewormers besides ivermectin have been proven ineffective in
killing equine parasites.
Ivermectin is the only drug on the market with safety and no worm resistance.there are several name brand dewormers
that have ivermectin as their main ingrediant.
Be aware and read labels.
Once and maybe twice a year you should use an ivermectin product that also kills tapeworms.. Ivermectin gold and
Equimax are excellent choices.
Vaccinations:
Consult your veterinarian for their recommendations, but it is not unusual to wait administer vaccinations until the foal
has completed the quarantine period from weaning and being in his new home which would be aprox 30 days from
weaning.
Administering vaccinations upon arrival could actually mask any ailments they are designed to combat and often the
horses are just weaned and are still carrying immunity from their mothers and are not susceptible to absorb vaccines
until aprox 30 days after weaning. Also, as the foal will already be under stress and tired from their travels, inoculations
may affect them negatively.
Shipping Fever:
This ailment is quite prevalent in young foals who have been exposed to the rigors of a long trip. The symptoms
displayed are similar to those of a cold: discharge from the nose, lethargy and often a dry cough. The main cause of
shipping fever is stress and the respiratory environment in a transport trailer. Besides the long trip, your foal has gone
through the stress of an abrupt weaning process and changes in environment. If you suspect your foal has shipping
fever, consult your veterinarian promptly. If left untreated, fluid can settle in the lungs causing pneumonia. Of course
your foal will be tired and somewhat depressed after their long trip, but if these symptoms persist more than a few days
or are accompanied by those symptoms listed above - call your veterinarian.
Strangles:
This ailment used to be uncommon, but with the increase in transportation of horses from infected regions and the
negligence of some horse owners/transporters, is becoming increasingly common. It is a highly contagious disease
characterized by inflammation of the nasal and mucous membranes, and with abscesses forming in the lymph nodes
(lower jaw area). Initially, the foal will show signs of increased lethargy, difficulty eating/swallowing, a thick nasal
discharge and sometimes drooling caused by the inability to swallow easily. The abscesses will enlarge as the infection
manifests itself, eventually breaking open to release large amounts of a thick, creamy pus. The incubation period of
strangles (between the time the foal was affected and the onset of visible clinical signs) is between 4-14 days but can
also be as little as 2 days, and as long as 21 days. There is also a fever which develops as the abscesses enlarge.
Once the abscesses rupture, recovery is usually rapid and complete within a couple of weeks - although there is a very
slight chance that other abscesses may develop. It is best to let the disease run it’s course, ensuring that the foal is
monitored as closely as possible and in as comfortable an environment as possible. If the abscesses do not rupture on
their own, your veterinarian may recommend intervention in the form of hot compresses or in extreme cases, lancing.
As this disease is VERY contagious, extreme care must be taken to control the cleanliness of all items the foal comes in
contact with - washing any implements, brushes, etc. very well and even disinfecting them. Bedding should be disposed
of in a secured area or even better, be burned. Once all symptoms have disappeared, the foal will remain contagious
for at least 3 weeks but a further quarantine period of up to 6 weeks is recommended. It is important to note that
humans and pets are largely responsible for the spread of the strangles virus within a farm; humans carrying the very
persistent virus on theory clothing and on their shoes, and pets, by walking through the infected area, to where the
other horses on the premises may be. If your foal develops strangles, DO NOT go from the foal’s quarantine area
without changing your clothing and either changing footwear or dipping your shoes in a strong disinfectant solution.
“Bastard Strangles” are basically a mutated form of strangles, rare but usually fatal. They are caused when the
abscesses form in other parts of the body - lymph nodes in the intestinal tract, lungs, kidneys, etc. Rupture of the
affected nodes can cause life-threatening pleurisies or peritonitis (inflammation of the membrane covering the lungs and
lining the chest cavity, or inflammation of the membrane lining the abdomen and abdominal membranes). As these
abscesses are not visible, treatment cannot be administered quickly and adequately enough to aid in the foal’s
recovery. Fortunately, incidents of “Bastard Strangles” are rare.
Please note that giving your foal the Strangles inter-nasal vaccine upon their arrival could actually encourage the onset
of “Bastard Strangles” by oppressing the disease within the confines of the body if the strangles bacteria is present in
their system. Administering antibiotic treatment as strangles is just developing may also cause “Bastard Strangles”
ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR VETERINARIAN prior to administering any treatment to your foal if you suspect he/she is ill.
Consult Your Veterinarian for Further Information.
* * * * *
While we have endeavored include everything in assembling this fact sheet, there may be questions you have about
your foal’s situation, which we have not covered.
Never hesitate to contact us with your questions - Stacy Brown 1 706 318 3013 but between 9 am and 5 pm please.
Emergencies or after hours questions need to be directed to your local veterinarian which you should have their number
already on hand.
As purchasers ourselves, we can appreciate how overwhelmed you may feel with a new foal. We want your placement
process to go smoothly, and your foal’s transition to his/her new environment to be as comfortable and stress-free as
possible. Purchase of a new foal is a very rewarding experience and we want to make it as successful as possible for
you and your foal.
Thank you for your purchase and enjoy your new horse. We hope to do business with you in the future.
SMBSMINIATURES
This information sheet has been provided to give you some insight into what to expect when your new foal arrives. It
should be treated as a guideline only and your veterinarian should be consulted immediately if you have any concerns
about your new foal’s health so that the proper diagnosis and relevant treatment can be administered as soon as
possible.
Prior to Arrival at Their New Home:
Have a relationship with a veterinarian nearby that treats large animals and have their emergency number on hand...
you never know when you may need it.
Your new foal may have traveled hundreds of miles, possibly with stops along the way. This is also a weaning period for
these babies - being apart from their dams for the first time. The trip will tire them out, they may be depressed due to
the major changes in their short lives, and they may have some minor cuts or scrapes sustained while traveling in a
trailer with many other foals. Remember that the foals are transported “loose” in a trailer - safer at this age as they will
find their own balance and a comfortable position to travel in. Foals traveling to the southern areas of the United
States may experience additional stress as they will have to adjust to the warmer climate. Keep in mind that these foals
will adjust quite quickly to their new environments.
Understand that the foals will NOT be halter broke or easily handled when they arrive - they will have had almost no
handling at this point and it will take the individuals time and dedication to gain their trust.
Remember that these foals are not familiar with people. For some, you may be their first actual contact with anyone
other than “Mom” or their buddies. Up until this time, any contact with people will have been done using a chute or small
paddock or just being caught to be wormed or medicated.
These foals are untrained and capable of causing injury to themselves if they feel they are being threatened. They
are born naturally, in large fields, some not even seeing much of people until they are “rounded-up” at 3 months of age
and brought in for separation from their dams. The majority of farms use substantial board fencing for handling of their
horses and foals, therefore these foals are not familiar with wire or electric fencing and may panic if exposed to it. Their
short lives have been spent in the company of other horses and foals and once separated upon arrival at their new
homes, they may panic. Please try to plan ahead and ensure that your new foal will have an inviting yet TOTALLY
SAFE environment to enter into.
One thing we highly recommend is a companion of another equine for your new horse. Horses are herd animals and no
other animal be it a goat, dog, chicken or cow can substitute the need for equine company.
Equines need each other and can develop fatal ulcers, bad behaviors, and can even die from depression if isolated
from other equines. Consider that when making a purchase and have another horse available so the new horse can feel
safe and relaxed in its new home and environment.
Your Foal’s New Home:
Not enough importance can be placed on providing a safe and healthy home for your new foal. As these foals are not
yet used to being kept indoors, a small, properly fenced area would be ideal. This area should be sufficiently large so
that the foal has plenty of room to run and frolic, but small enough that catching the foal is possible. It is important for
the foal to be able to exercise adequately and to allow their bodies to develop properly. Do not isolate foals from other
horses or equine companionship. This can be a fatal mistake.
A shelter from the elements is a necessity: a run-in type shelter or stall in a barn is suitable providing it allows shelter
from wind, rain, snow and the heat of the sun. It should large enough to permit the foal to move around easily and also
take into consideration the number of horses/foals using the same structure. If you plan on bringing your foal into a
stall for periods of time, the stall should be of an adequate size that the foal can move around freely, be solidly
constructed and have all additions (feed tubs, waterers, etc.) safely and securely attached and also you should put his
companion horse in the same stall with him or at least allow him to have access visually of the other horse.
Suitable fencing is VERY important. Fences should be strong, safely constructed and high enough (minimum 3 feet) to
discourage jumping. There are several types of fencing available, most are acceptable. One or two strand electric,
barbed wire or page wire are NOT recommended.
If you have any concerns regarding fencing, ask your veterinarian or a reputable breeder in your area.
Remember also, that FRESH water, HAY and SALT should be available free choice at ALL times whether your foal is
turned out in a paddock or field or spending some time in a stall.
Health Concerns:
Your Veterinarian is your best resource to answer any questions or concerns regarding the health or condition of your
foal on arrival. The following data is provided for information only - your veterinarian IS the expert!
A quarantine period will allow you to get to know your foal and introduce yourself in their life. They will soon realize that
YOU are the source of food and companionship - this will become a very important part of their acceptance of their new
life.
Remember that all foals are different - some may accept your presence quite readily whereas others may be resentful
and afraid and will react as nature has taught them - with teeth and heels or simply by avoiding all contact.
Find out what it is your foal likes enough to overcome these fears - food is usually a good start. Sometimes, a good
scratch is just the ticket. Be persistent but don’t overtax the foal by forcing your presence on them - they will come
around on their own time.
Foals are curious by nature and once they find that people aren’t the ogres the foals think they are, the acceptance will
come quite readily. TIME and PATIENCE is important. Each foal is an individual and the time it takes for them to accept
humans will vary accordingly. Foals housed individually tend to bond with people more quickly than those who are in a
group.
While in a new home situation, a general assessment of the condition and health of the foal can be done as early
detection of any illness is important. Make a visual assessment of the foal’s overall appearance - do they appear
sound? Are they as bright and attentive as is reasonable? Are there any cuts or scrapes that may need attention?
Also, monitor your foal’s intake of hay/pasture and any additional feeds they may accept. It may be advisable to feed
hay at this time so the amount eaten can be monitored. If possible, ensure that the foal is passing manure and urinating
normally. Manual water supplies such as buckets or troughs are recommended in place of automatic waterers so that
the water consumption can be watched.
Your Foal’s Feeding Program:
Remember that your foal has come from a completely different environment than their new home. They have spent the
first few months of life living with their dams in large open fields, depending first on the mare’s milk and graduating to
pasture. These foals have not had grain in their diets so it should be introduced slowly and be a feed suitable for foal
consumption. It may take a few days for the foal to become accustomed to eating grain, but they soon find the taste
VERY likeable! Also take into consideration the weight and breed type of your foal and feed accordingly. Draft foals will
have somewhat different feed requirements than a light breed foal. Creep feeding a 10% grain based feed is acceptable
if the foal is under 1 year old.
Good quality hay is the most important part of a foal’s diet and is essential to proper growth. Ensure your foal has
sufficient hay offered - many people feed hay free choice as opposed to giving specific amounts. This is a better option
in this breeders opinion as long as the hay is fresh, free of mold and dust and changed out often if not completely
consumed.
If you are unsure of the quality of your hay, invest in the small amount it costs to have it analyzed - it is money well
spent. A mixed type hay - timothy, grass, with some with alfalfa is recommended as it is usually well-balanced and highly
palatable for foals.
Grains, complete feeds and/or supplements are also an important part of your growing foal’s diet. There are many
opinions as to what type of feed your foal should be given. Minis do not do well on pelleted foal feed,(for digestive
reasons)and do much better on a high grain content(oat based) low corn based sweet feed combined with one or many
of the vast array of equine supplements that are available. If you are unfamiliar with the best feed to offer your new foal,
consult your Veterinarian, a reputable breeder in your area, equine nutritionist or a feed analyst that may be affiliated
with a local feed store. Remember to tell them you have minis.
Minis do not do well with pellets or corm based feeds.
Foals can eat several pounds a day and be ok.
A full grown mini needs to have feed adjusted according to their condition. A regular mini in good health and condition
would consume about 2 lbs total of grain a day preferably cut into two feedings.(am and pm). A thin or pregnant mini
would do well with up to 3 to 4 lbs and some sort of supplement.
Remember, a full grown mini can weigh up to 450 if its a large sized mini. Adult horses can eat up to 10% of their weight
in grain per day meaning a 400 lb mini as long as its not obese should get up to 4 lbs of feed.
Its better to feed 2lbs in the am and 2 lbs in the pm than all 4 lbs at once.
Hay is offered free choice all day and night.
Ensure that the ration is balanced, taking into consideration the makeup of your hay, and your environment. (A foal
living in the sunny south will need a different type of ration than one going into a Canadian winter.) Remember to adjust
your feed ration as your foal grows, monitoring his or her growth and joints routinely for signs of any developmental
issues which can happen with any youngster.
Also remember foals have thick coats and often look fatter than they really are. Feel through the hair coats to make
sure you do not feel ribs or a spine.
if you do feel ribs and or see a pot gut, your horse is probably wormy and malnourished.
You need to step up your feed program. Your horse should look sleek and fat and healthy. Anything other than that and
you have a problem.
Clean water should be available at all times and care taken to ensure that water containers be kept clean. With the
foals arriving in the pre-winter months, also ensure that extremely cold water is not presented (adding warm water or
use of a water heater may be necessary).
Salt should be provided at all times - a mineral salt lick is recommended. A trace mineral block is ideal or you may want
to add a mineral mix to the foal’s feed ration or its easier to just have a bock and allow free choice licking.
Ensuring the Health of Your Foal:
De-worming:
Your foal may or may not have been wormed prior to arriving at their new home. It is recommended that the foal be
wormed soon after their arrival (usually as soon as the foal can be handled safely). Your veterinarian can recommend
the best de-worming product to use - at this time usually a wide-spectrum type like any ivermectin product is
recommended.
Quest, with the active ingredient moxidectin, should NOT be used on miniature horses EVER(death can occur), and
wormers such as strongid or panacur have a high worm resistance and are not effective in killing the worms any more.
De-worming your foal may prove tricky at first if you are using the syringe type products. Make sure if worming a very
small young foal you use a proper amount and do not allow the syringe to slip and over worm your foal.
Your new foal most likely weighs between 30 and 70 lbs if under year old.
Commercial Ivermectin wormers are often in 250lb increments and not designed for tiny miniature foals. You might ask
your vet to make you up some syringes for the proper weight of your foal with a liquid ivermectin until your foal reaches
yearling age at which time you can give him the 250 lb dose from the commercial ivermectin you choose to use. Your
foal may only weigh 100 lbs at a year old but ivermectine is still safe to over dose in this range and the foal will be ok.
Worming is recommended every other month or every 8 weeks minimum.
It is a critical part in caring for your horse as worms can be the number one killer and cause of colic and other health
problems. Simply dewormimg on a regular basis can insure a long happy and healthy life. Ignoring this minor health care
step can cost your horse dearly.
Rotation deworming is not advised as over the counter dewormers besides ivermectin have been proven ineffective in
killing equine parasites.
Ivermectin is the only drug on the market with safety and no worm resistance.there are several name brand dewormers
that have ivermectin as their main ingrediant.
Be aware and read labels.
Once and maybe twice a year you should use an ivermectin product that also kills tapeworms.. Ivermectin gold and
Equimax are excellent choices.
Vaccinations:
Consult your veterinarian for their recommendations, but it is not unusual to wait administer vaccinations until the foal
has completed the quarantine period from weaning and being in his new home which would be aprox 30 days from
weaning.
Administering vaccinations upon arrival could actually mask any ailments they are designed to combat and often the
horses are just weaned and are still carrying immunity from their mothers and are not susceptible to absorb vaccines
until aprox 30 days after weaning. Also, as the foal will already be under stress and tired from their travels, inoculations
may affect them negatively.
Shipping Fever:
This ailment is quite prevalent in young foals who have been exposed to the rigors of a long trip. The symptoms
displayed are similar to those of a cold: discharge from the nose, lethargy and often a dry cough. The main cause of
shipping fever is stress and the respiratory environment in a transport trailer. Besides the long trip, your foal has gone
through the stress of an abrupt weaning process and changes in environment. If you suspect your foal has shipping
fever, consult your veterinarian promptly. If left untreated, fluid can settle in the lungs causing pneumonia. Of course
your foal will be tired and somewhat depressed after their long trip, but if these symptoms persist more than a few days
or are accompanied by those symptoms listed above - call your veterinarian.
Strangles:
This ailment used to be uncommon, but with the increase in transportation of horses from infected regions and the
negligence of some horse owners/transporters, is becoming increasingly common. It is a highly contagious disease
characterized by inflammation of the nasal and mucous membranes, and with abscesses forming in the lymph nodes
(lower jaw area). Initially, the foal will show signs of increased lethargy, difficulty eating/swallowing, a thick nasal
discharge and sometimes drooling caused by the inability to swallow easily. The abscesses will enlarge as the infection
manifests itself, eventually breaking open to release large amounts of a thick, creamy pus. The incubation period of
strangles (between the time the foal was affected and the onset of visible clinical signs) is between 4-14 days but can
also be as little as 2 days, and as long as 21 days. There is also a fever which develops as the abscesses enlarge.
Once the abscesses rupture, recovery is usually rapid and complete within a couple of weeks - although there is a very
slight chance that other abscesses may develop. It is best to let the disease run it’s course, ensuring that the foal is
monitored as closely as possible and in as comfortable an environment as possible. If the abscesses do not rupture on
their own, your veterinarian may recommend intervention in the form of hot compresses or in extreme cases, lancing.
As this disease is VERY contagious, extreme care must be taken to control the cleanliness of all items the foal comes in
contact with - washing any implements, brushes, etc. very well and even disinfecting them. Bedding should be disposed
of in a secured area or even better, be burned. Once all symptoms have disappeared, the foal will remain contagious
for at least 3 weeks but a further quarantine period of up to 6 weeks is recommended. It is important to note that
humans and pets are largely responsible for the spread of the strangles virus within a farm; humans carrying the very
persistent virus on theory clothing and on their shoes, and pets, by walking through the infected area, to where the
other horses on the premises may be. If your foal develops strangles, DO NOT go from the foal’s quarantine area
without changing your clothing and either changing footwear or dipping your shoes in a strong disinfectant solution.
“Bastard Strangles” are basically a mutated form of strangles, rare but usually fatal. They are caused when the
abscesses form in other parts of the body - lymph nodes in the intestinal tract, lungs, kidneys, etc. Rupture of the
affected nodes can cause life-threatening pleurisies or peritonitis (inflammation of the membrane covering the lungs and
lining the chest cavity, or inflammation of the membrane lining the abdomen and abdominal membranes). As these
abscesses are not visible, treatment cannot be administered quickly and adequately enough to aid in the foal’s
recovery. Fortunately, incidents of “Bastard Strangles” are rare.
Please note that giving your foal the Strangles inter-nasal vaccine upon their arrival could actually encourage the onset
of “Bastard Strangles” by oppressing the disease within the confines of the body if the strangles bacteria is present in
their system. Administering antibiotic treatment as strangles is just developing may also cause “Bastard Strangles”
ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR VETERINARIAN prior to administering any treatment to your foal if you suspect he/she is ill.
Consult Your Veterinarian for Further Information.
* * * * *
While we have endeavored include everything in assembling this fact sheet, there may be questions you have about
your foal’s situation, which we have not covered.
Never hesitate to contact us with your questions - Stacy Brown 1 706 318 3013 but between 9 am and 5 pm please.
Emergencies or after hours questions need to be directed to your local veterinarian which you should have their number
already on hand.
As purchasers ourselves, we can appreciate how overwhelmed you may feel with a new foal. We want your placement
process to go smoothly, and your foal’s transition to his/her new environment to be as comfortable and stress-free as
possible. Purchase of a new foal is a very rewarding experience and we want to make it as successful as possible for
you and your foal.
Thank you for your purchase and enjoy your new horse. We hope to do business with you in the future.
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